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Terra Madre Katrina Relief Fund to Benefit
Gulf Region Food Producers
On the morning of August 29, 2005, Hurricane Katrinas
tremendous storm surge caused extensive damage along the central
Gulf Coast. For many of the regions farmers, food producers,
and fisherman, the disaster threatened or decimated their livelihoods.
Although months have passed, those affected by the hurricanes in
the Gulf Region are still in desperate need of help. Slow Food has
been able to make a positive impact through the Terra Madre Fund.
In early December, a worldwide appeal was sent to more than 1,000
Terra Madre food communities, inviting them to share their moral
support, their equipment, and their labor to producers in need.
Farmers and fishers from the region have received grants from local
convivia nationwide, and partner organizations, such as Seed Savers
Exchange, have provided generous donations.
Slow Food USA is directing various kinds of support to farmers
of the Gulf Coast region. We have identified producers who are integral
to the areas gastronomic and agricultural landscape to receive
monetary grants from the Terra Madre Fund. Please take a moment
to read about them and the foods they produce below. Together, we
can help the Gulf Coast regions producers return to their
farming and fishing practices.
Ways to Show Your Support:
- Make
a monetary donation to the Terra Madre Katrina Relief Fund
by visiting the Slow Food USA General Store
- Build solidarity throughout the Terra Madre community by sending
letters of support or donations of equipment to the recipients
below.
Terra Madre Katrina Relief Fund Recipient Profiles
Rebel Seafood
Ray and Kay Brandhurst, together with the help of their four children,
run the Rebel Seafood operation. Ray began fishing when he was fifteen
and has now been devoted to it for over three decades. He loves
his vocation, it is both his livelihood and passion, and he built
his dreamboat himself. Rebel Seafood specializes in lake and Gulf
shrimp, by-catch, blue crab, finfish, catfish, trout, and flounder.
His wife Kay is in charge of marketing and selling the catch to
restaurants and at farmers markets.
Their shipping business was starting to take off right before the
hurricane hit, when their retail market was completely lost. They
suffered more than $500,000 in damages, that included their home
and trawler, which was found in thirty feet of water. Their fishing
village of Saint Bernard Parish was extremely hard hit and the loss
of infrastructure has made things very difficult. They travel at
least an hour to purchase ice. However, the Brandhurst family continues
to move forward. They have recovered their boat and the engines,
but the operation is still far from being properly equipped. Ray
continues to go out fishing, but he must stay close to land.
They have already received a generous grant from Slow Food Carmel,
but are still in need of funds to pay for boat equipment. They are
also accepting offers of physical labor.
Contact:
Ray & Kay Brandhurst
Rebel Seafood
8421 Patricia Street
Chalmette, LA 70043
kbrandhurs@aol.com
504-228-8038

Kay Brandhurst weighs fish at the Crescent City Farmers Market
reopening before Thanksgiving.
The Soft Shell Crab
Anthony and Ethel Smith produce some of the fattest and finest soft
shell crabs in the Gulf region. They regularly supply many New Orleans
restaurants and po boy joints, and sell weekly at the Crescent
City Farmer's Market.
They suffered extensive storm damage to their soft shell facility,
(crabs must be monitored 24 hours a day in order to be harvested
as soon as moulting occurs) and their boat sunk TWICEfirst
during Katrina and again after it had been salvaged. Undaunted,
Anthony has repaired the boat and today is only crabbing for hard
shells, though they hope to have their soft shell operation up and
running again by March, 2006.
Contact:
Anthony and Ethel Smith
The Soft Shell Crab
4535 Utopia Street
Barataria, LA 70036
504-689-2660
Fair Pop Hill Farm
Fair Pop Hill Farm is a one-man greenhouse operation. Since 1998,
Terry Spell has been growing heirloom tomatoes in a greenhouse,
specializing in the production of winter varieties. He also has
eighty Satsuma trees in four greenhouses. The Louisiana Satsuma,
a product on the Slow Food USA Ark of Taste, is a citrus fruit with
a sweet flavor and brilliant orange color. Terry sells his tomatoes,
satsumas, and other citrus weekly at the New Orleans Crescent
City Farmers Market.
The hurricane destroyed Terrys greenhouses and badly beat
up the citrus treescausing more than $30,000 in damages. He
has fixed the tomato greenhouse and just finished reseeding for
spring. His crop is normally ready for harvest in mid-November,
but this year they will not be ripe until mid-March. His operation
is in desperate need of HAF (horizontal air flow) fans that provide
the air circulation in his tomato greenhouse, and water lines for
his citrus houses. The water lines mist the trees to provide irrigation
and protection from potential freezes.
Contact:
Terry Spell
Fair Pop Hill Farm
78434 Spell Road
Covington, LA 70435
985-893-5432
Rokos Oyster
Roko Tvrdeic emigrated to New Orleans from Croatia, where fishing
is an integral part of the culture and economy. Working in the New
Orleans oyster business for almost forty years, Roko and his wife,
Patsy, specialize in harvesting the famous Louisiana oysters, which
they sell at the local farmers market. The Tvrdeics,
along with four of their six children, lost just about everything
in Hurricane Katrina. Their larger boat was lost, leaving them unable
to harvest since their remaining small lugger can only go out in
shallow water. They still have a small amount of equipment, but
their processing plant is completely goneas well as their
home, trucks, coolers and electricity. They are doing everything
they can to salvage their equipment and repair the boat.
Contact:
Patsy and Roko Tvrdeic
Rokos Oyster
Empire, LA 70050
tvrdic@yahoo.com
504-912-0774

Rokos and Patsys oyster harvesting vessel was destroyed
by Hurricane Katrina.
Isabel and Miguel Mendez
The Mendez family is one of the only producers in the state who
grow the Louisiana Heritage strawberry, a product listed on the
Slow Food USA Ark of Taste.
The Mendez family grows strawberries and other seasonal vegetables
in a sustainable way, respecting the environment and selling their
products locally. Unfortunately the hurricane devastated their farm
and they lost everything.
Contact:
Isabel and Miguel Mendez
12411 West Black Cat Road
Independence, LA 70443
985-981-2622
Mandinas
Anthony and Frank Mandina, the sons of Sicilian immigrant Sebastian
Mandina, grew up above the familys grocery store on the corner
of Canal and Cortez Streets in New Orleans Mid-City neighborhood.
Upon their fathers death in 1932, the brothers converted the
corner store into what would become one of New Orleans quintessential
neighborhood restaurants.
The Mandina family has operated the restaurant for four generations.
While Anthony and Frank served their country in World War II, Anthony's
wife, Miss Hilda, ran the restaurant alone. When the brothers returned,
Anthony ran the kitchen and Frank manned the bar, which, prior to
Hurricane Katrina, was staffed by the youngest generation of the
Mandina family. Seafood, Soul, Creole and Italian dishes like Red
Beans & Rice with Italian Sausage, Daube with Spaghetti, Stewed
Chicken, Trout Meuniere and Oyster Loaf have been on the menu for
years. For so many New Orleanians, eating at Mandinasone
of the citys last remaining, true neighborhood restaurantsfeels
and tastes like home.
Water levels of up to 6 feet caused catastrophic damage to this
venerable eatery. Despite the challenge, the family intends to restore
the restaurant, though the re-building costs will be enormous due
to the major structural repairs needed.
Contact:
Mandina's Restaurant
3800 Canal Street
New Orleans, LA 70119
504-482-9179
Angelo Brocatos Ice Cream and Confectionary
This year marks the 100th anniversary of Angelo Brocatos Ice
Cream and Confectionary. Unfortunately, left in the wake of Hurricane
Katrina, the doors are closed, and the building is condemned.
At age 12, Angelo Brocato apprenticed at an ice cream parlor in
Palermo, Italy, and hoped to one day open his own shop. Angelo was
one of many Sicilian immigrants who came to New Orleans with his
American dream. He used the wages he earned working on a sugar plantation
to open a modest ice cream shop which he later expanded into one
of the citys first sit-down parlors, and eventually moved
the operation to its current Mid-City location. Prior to the storm,
the ice cream parlor served more than 24 flavors of ice cream, Italian
ices, and gelato made with all natural, imported Sicilian flavorings.
A third generation of Brocatos were producing their products
on-site.
Its hard to imagine a St. Josephs Day alter without
Brocatos Biscotti Di Regina (Italian Seed Cookies), Cucidata
(Italian Fig Cookies) and Pigniolata (Sugar Coated Confections)all
baked according to Mr. & Mrs. Angelo Brocato Sr.s recipes
and standards. Generations of New Orleanians pray this isnt
the case this spring.
The Brocato family pledges to come back, but 5 feet of water inundated
their establishment for weeks and has ruined their equipment (most
of which was newly purchased in celebration of their centennial).
Flood damages leaves them with over a quarter of a million dollars
in rebuilding costs.
Contact:
Angelo Brocato Ice Cream & Confectionery
214 North Carrollton Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70119
504-486-1465
Click here
for Brocato's Traditional Sicilian Cookie Recipes - Cuicidatti &
Biscotti Regina
Dooky Chases
In 1941, Edgar "Dooky" Chase and his wife Emily turned
a meager sandwich shop into what quickly became one of the most
popular dining establishments for the African American community.
Dookys soon became "the" meeting place for everyone
of all races and walks of life. "Upstairs" at Dookys
has been the center of New Orleans politics since the early Civil
Rights days.
In 1946, Leah Chase married Dooky, Jr. and began to be involved
at all levels of his parents restaurant. Under her guidance,
the restaurant was transformed into a center of art and culture
for the Creole community with her growing selection of African American
art. Leahs food is without compare. It couldnt be Holy
Thursday in New Orleans without her magical Gumbo ZHerbes.
Today, the 4th generation is running the show, though Hurricane
Katrina brought this tradition to a screeching halt with 5 feet
of water flooding the restaurant. The restaurant must be entirely
rebuilt. The relentless Leah is determined to return this year,
despite the fact that every family member also lost their home.
From a FEMA trailer in the parking lot, the octogenarian is pressing
the workmen so that she can be at her stove again.
Contact:
Dooky Chase Restaurant
2301 Orleans Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70119
504-821-0600
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