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Terra Madre Katrina Relief Fund to Benefit Gulf Region Food Producers

On the morning of August 29, 2005, Hurricane Katrina’s tremendous storm surge caused extensive damage along the central Gulf Coast. For many of the region’s farmers, food producers, and fisherman, the disaster threatened or decimated their livelihoods. Although months have passed, those affected by the hurricanes in the Gulf Region are still in desperate need of help. Slow Food has been able to make a positive impact through the Terra Madre Fund. In early December, a worldwide appeal was sent to more than 1,000 Terra Madre food communities, inviting them to share their moral support, their equipment, and their labor to producers in need. Farmers and fishers from the region have received grants from local convivia nationwide, and partner organizations, such as Seed Savers Exchange, have provided generous donations.

Slow Food USA is directing various kinds of support to farmers of the Gulf Coast region. We have identified producers who are integral to the area’s gastronomic and agricultural landscape to receive monetary grants from the Terra Madre Fund. Please take a moment to read about them and the foods they produce below. Together, we can help the Gulf Coast region’s producers return to their farming and fishing practices.

Ways to Show Your Support:

  • Make a monetary donation to the Terra Madre Katrina Relief Fund by visiting the Slow Food USA General Store
  • Build solidarity throughout the Terra Madre community by sending letters of support or donations of equipment to the recipients below.

Terra Madre Katrina Relief Fund Recipient Profiles

Rebel Seafood
Ray and Kay Brandhurst, together with the help of their four children, run the Rebel Seafood operation. Ray began fishing when he was fifteen and has now been devoted to it for over three decades. He loves his vocation, it is both his livelihood and passion, and he built his dreamboat himself. Rebel Seafood specializes in lake and Gulf shrimp, by-catch, blue crab, finfish, catfish, trout, and flounder. His wife Kay is in charge of marketing and selling the catch to restaurants and at farmers’ markets.

Their shipping business was starting to take off right before the hurricane hit, when their retail market was completely lost. They suffered more than $500,000 in damages, that included their home and trawler, which was found in thirty feet of water. Their fishing village of Saint Bernard Parish was extremely hard hit and the loss of infrastructure has made things very difficult. They travel at least an hour to purchase ice. However, the Brandhurst family continues to move forward. They have recovered their boat and the engines, but the operation is still far from being properly equipped. Ray continues to go out fishing, but he must stay close to land.

They have already received a generous grant from Slow Food Carmel, but are still in need of funds to pay for boat equipment. They are also accepting offers of physical labor.

Contact:
Ray & Kay Brandhurst
Rebel Seafood
8421 Patricia Street
Chalmette, LA 70043
kbrandhurs@aol.com
504-228-8038


Kay Brandhurst weighs fish at the Crescent City Farmer’s Market reopening before Thanksgiving.

The Soft Shell Crab
Anthony and Ethel Smith produce some of the fattest and finest soft shell crabs in the Gulf region. They regularly supply many New Orleans restaurants and po’ boy joints, and sell weekly at the Crescent City Farmer's Market.

They suffered extensive storm damage to their soft shell facility, (crabs must be monitored 24 hours a day in order to be harvested as soon as moulting occurs) and their boat sunk TWICE—first during Katrina and again after it had been salvaged. Undaunted, Anthony has repaired the boat and today is only crabbing for hard shells, though they hope to have their soft shell operation up and running again by March, 2006.

Contact:
Anthony and Ethel Smith
The Soft Shell Crab
4535 Utopia Street
Barataria, LA 70036
504-689-2660

Fair Pop Hill Farm
Fair Pop Hill Farm is a one-man greenhouse operation. Since 1998, Terry Spell has been growing heirloom tomatoes in a greenhouse, specializing in the production of winter varieties. He also has eighty Satsuma trees in four greenhouses. The Louisiana Satsuma, a product on the Slow Food USA Ark of Taste, is a citrus fruit with a sweet flavor and brilliant orange color. Terry sells his tomatoes, satsumas, and other citrus weekly at the New Orleans’ Crescent City Farmers’ Market.

The hurricane destroyed Terry’s greenhouses and badly beat up the citrus trees—causing more than $30,000 in damages. He has fixed the tomato greenhouse and just finished reseeding for spring. His crop is normally ready for harvest in mid-November, but this year they will not be ripe until mid-March. His operation is in desperate need of HAF (horizontal air flow) fans that provide the air circulation in his tomato greenhouse, and water lines for his citrus houses. The water lines mist the trees to provide irrigation and protection from potential freezes.

Contact:
Terry Spell
Fair Pop Hill Farm
78434 Spell Road
Covington, LA 70435
985-893-5432

Roko’s Oyster
Roko Tvrdeic emigrated to New Orleans from Croatia, where fishing is an integral part of the culture and economy. Working in the New Orleans oyster business for almost forty years, Roko and his wife, Patsy, specialize in harvesting the famous Louisiana oysters, which they sell at the local farmers’ market. The Tvrdeics’, along with four of their six children, lost just about everything in Hurricane Katrina. Their larger boat was lost, leaving them unable to harvest since their remaining small lugger can only go out in shallow water. They still have a small amount of equipment, but their processing plant is completely gone—as well as their home, trucks, coolers and electricity. They are doing everything they can to salvage their equipment and repair the boat.

Contact:
Patsy and Roko Tvrdeic
Roko’s Oyster
Empire, LA 70050
tvrdic@yahoo.com
504-912-0774


Roko’s and Patsy’s oyster harvesting vessel was destroyed by Hurricane Katrina.

Isabel and Miguel Mendez
The Mendez family is one of the only producers in the state who grow the Louisiana Heritage strawberry, a product listed on the Slow Food USA Ark of Taste.

The Mendez family grows strawberries and other seasonal vegetables in a sustainable way, respecting the environment and selling their products locally. Unfortunately the hurricane devastated their farm and they lost everything.

Contact:
Isabel and Miguel Mendez
12411 West Black Cat Road
Independence, LA 70443
985-981-2622

Mandina’s
Anthony and Frank Mandina, the sons of Sicilian immigrant Sebastian Mandina, grew up above the family’s grocery store on the corner of Canal and Cortez Streets in New Orleans’ Mid-City neighborhood. Upon their father’s death in 1932, the brothers converted the corner store into what would become one of New Orleans quintessential neighborhood restaurants.

The Mandina family has operated the restaurant for four generations. While Anthony and Frank served their country in World War II, Anthony's wife, Miss Hilda, ran the restaurant alone. When the brothers returned, Anthony ran the kitchen and Frank manned the bar, which, prior to Hurricane Katrina, was staffed by the youngest generation of the Mandina family. Seafood, Soul, Creole and Italian dishes like Red Beans & Rice with Italian Sausage, Daube with Spaghetti, Stewed Chicken, Trout Meuniere and Oyster Loaf have been on the menu for years. For so many New Orleanians, eating at Mandina’s—one of the city’s last remaining, true neighborhood restaurants—feels and tastes like home.

Water levels of up to 6 feet caused catastrophic damage to this venerable eatery. Despite the challenge, the family intends to restore the restaurant, though the re-building costs will be enormous due to the major structural repairs needed.

Contact:
Mandina's Restaurant
3800 Canal Street
New Orleans, LA 70119
504-482-9179

Angelo Brocato’s Ice Cream and Confectionary
This year marks the 100th anniversary of Angelo Brocato’s Ice Cream and Confectionary. Unfortunately, left in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, the doors are closed, and the building is condemned.

At age 12, Angelo Brocato apprenticed at an ice cream parlor in Palermo, Italy, and hoped to one day open his own shop. Angelo was one of many Sicilian immigrants who came to New Orleans with his American dream. He used the wages he earned working on a sugar plantation to open a modest ice cream shop which he later expanded into one of the city’s first sit-down parlors, and eventually moved the operation to its current Mid-City location. Prior to the storm, the ice cream parlor served more than 24 flavors of ice cream, Italian ices, and gelato made with all natural, imported Sicilian flavorings. A third generation of Brocato’s were producing their products on-site.

It’s hard to imagine a St. Joseph’s Day alter without Brocato’s Biscotti Di Regina (Italian Seed Cookies), Cucidata (Italian Fig Cookies) and Pigniolata (Sugar Coated Confections)—all baked according to Mr. & Mrs. Angelo Brocato Sr.’s recipes and standards. Generations of New Orleanians pray this isn’t the case this spring.

The Brocato family pledges to come back, but 5 feet of water inundated their establishment for weeks and has ruined their equipment (most of which was newly purchased in celebration of their centennial). Flood damages leaves them with over a quarter of a million dollars in rebuilding costs.

Contact:
Angelo Brocato Ice Cream & Confectionery
214 North Carrollton Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70119
504-486-1465

Click here for Brocato's Traditional Sicilian Cookie Recipes - Cuicidatti & Biscotti Regina

Dooky Chase’s
In 1941, Edgar "Dooky" Chase and his wife Emily turned a meager sandwich shop into what quickly became one of the most popular dining establishments for the African American community. Dooky’s soon became "the" meeting place for everyone of all races and walks of life. "Upstairs" at Dooky’s has been the center of New Orleans politics since the early Civil Rights days.

In 1946, Leah Chase married Dooky, Jr. and began to be involved at all levels of his parent’s restaurant. Under her guidance, the restaurant was transformed into a center of art and culture for the Creole community with her growing selection of African American art. Leah’s food is without compare. It couldn’t be Holy Thursday in New Orleans without her magical Gumbo Z’Herbes.

Today, the 4th generation is running the show, though Hurricane Katrina brought this tradition to a screeching halt with 5 feet of water flooding the restaurant. The restaurant must be entirely rebuilt. The relentless Leah is determined to return this year, despite the fact that every family member also lost their home. From a FEMA trailer in the parking lot, the octogenarian is pressing the workmen so that she can be at her stove again.

Contact:
Dooky Chase Restaurant
2301 Orleans Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70119
504-821-0600