The Slow Food USA Blog

One Heavenly Hog

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by intern Alaine Janosy

The Guinea hog, once a prevalent ‘family pig’ in the southeastern United States, is today considered by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC) to be a critically endangered species. Post-World War II, as industrial pork production increased and other imported breeds, such as the Vietnamese potbellied pig, took over the niche formally held by the Guinea hog, prevalence of this native swine began to decline. Slow Food Charleston, in conjunction with a local farmer/breeder, Gra Moore, a local executive chef, Craig Deihl, and ALBC, is working to improve the breed’s numbers and help kick-start a market for the meat.

In 2005 there were only about 75 Guinea hogs nationwide, but now, just four years later, as a result of dedicated re-population efforts, there are about 300 on farms throughout the country, a fourfold increase. Although this number does not warrant the pigs being considered ready for ‘prime time’ sales and distribution, it is large enough for some of the pigs to start being processed and selectively bred for traits that will best allow the hogs to thrive and be marketed. 

According to ALBC Research & Technical Programs Manager, Jeannette Beranger, Slow Food Charleston was a perfect promotional partner for the Guinea hog because having a connection to place is essential when trying to repopulate an endangered breed and Charleston is at the heart of the breed’s historical location. More than just promoting the hog, the chapter is also working to help Gra make raising these animals a profitable investment for his farm.

Slow Food Charleston’s chapter leader, Carole Addlestone, was able to coordinate Gra bringing one of his Guinea hogs to Craig Deihl at Cypress Lowcountry Grille as part of a tasting. Craig wrote about his experience with the Guinea hog on his blog in two separate posts – Project American Guinea hog and Project American Guinea hog part 2. He mentions being “stunned that a pig this small could have so much fat” and that “Gra knows how to raise a pig that makes a chef smile.” Both of these sentiments bode well for the future of the Guinea hog, particularly in professional kitchens and on restaurant menus.

To help further promote these animals and increase the public’s exposure to them, Gra placed two of the Guinea hogs at South Carolina’s Middleton Place, a National Historic Landmark. The hogs are part of the Plantation Stableyards where other farm animals also live.

Carole has been working to create additional promotional events including making February ‘High On The Hog’ month in Charleston. Slow Food Charleston is planning a dinner featuring the Guinea hog at Cypress restaurant and a Valentine’s Day tasting featuring Guinea hog bacon and chocolate.

Slow Food Charleston was recently selected as a Signature Charity for the BB&T Charleston Wine + Food Festival, which will take place March 4 - 7, 2010. The chapter will have a table set up in the Fed Ex tent for three full days at which they plan to have chapter promotional materials and chefs providing tastings of local Charleston foods, including the Guinea hog.

Jeannette and ALBC hope that other Slow Food chapters will, when considering adopting an endangered breed for promotion, focus on selecting an animal that is historically linked to their area and is native to their region.

Is there a breed on Slow Food USA’s Ark of Taste that is particularly important to your region? Is your chapter interested in starting a rare breed promotion project similar to Slow Food Charleston? If so, let us know