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Discovering Ramps

Posted on Fri, May 01, 2009 by Nathan Leamy
3 Comments | Categories: Farms and Farming, Uncategorized,

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Something there is that doesn’t love a ramp.

I moved to New York City from San Francisco in January.  Shopping predominantly in farmer’s markets, I went from a world of fresh citrus and glorious greens to a diet of nothing but root vegetables.  Don’t get me wrong, I love root vegetables (and hot house greens on occasion) but I have been yearning for something fresh, local, and colorful.  This weekend, ramps answered my prayers.

I had no idea what a ramp was until last Saturday when I stopped by my first of three farmer’s markets.  Walking through the crowded paths, I heard couples  literally exclaiming to one another ‘Look!  Ramps!  It’s spring!’  Like the robin, the ramp seems to be nature’s way of telling North Easterners that warmth is on its way.

A ramp is essentially a wild leek - with garlic and onion undertones and a nice musty flavor.  A large bunch cost $2 to $3.  Farmer’s gladly sold them to me with a smile of pride like a new parent.  ‘They grow wild by my stream’ one woman told me.  ‘They’re only going to be here for four more weeks - then they’ll be gone again’ another warned with a hushed voice.  Since first discovering this lovely root, I have gone through four bunches - sliced and fried with greens and all.  They have appeared in nearly every meal I’ve cooked.

So, welcome spring!  And welcome new and green foods into my diet!

Ramp Recipe: Ramp Pesto
by Executive Director Erika Lesser

If you have a favorite pesto recipe, simply substitute ramps for the basil (and the garlic - which you definitely won’t need with pungent ramps). Otherwise, rinse and chop two bunches of fresh ramps, both
roots and leaves, and throw in food processor with two fistfuls of pine nuts, one handful of grated Parmigiano or Pecorino, salt and pepper to taste and a couple glugs of olive oil. Process in brief bursts - just 5 or 10 seconds at a time - scraping down the sides and tasting as you go. Keep the chute open so you can add more oil while it blends, until the mixture is smooth and saucy.

Spoon into the smallest jar that it will fit in, keep in fridge, and eat with virtually anything.  Spread on toast with scrambled eggs, stir into pasta, mix a dollop into any chunky vegetable soup (even borscht - I just tried it), dip raw or cooked vegetables into it . . . . it’s all good.

Just beware of ramp belches; warn your co-workers and share at the lunch table. No one should mind that much if everyone smells the same.

photo by Niemster, from flickr Creative Commons


Member Comments

From John Miller on Mon, May 04, 2009

Thank you so much for sharing about ramps!  Here they are a part of the culture but always seem to be portrayed as a bit “hillbilly.”  This region holds so much promise for our country and our world.  Its nice to be honored by your discovery.

Go Wild!

John

From Russ Cohen on Fri, September 11, 2009

Hello - I have led foraging walks for over 35 years, and have collaborated with various Slow Food convivia almost a dozen times.  I am happy to see the interest of many Slow Foodies in wild foods (foraging is, after all the original Slow Food).

That said, I wanted to share I concern I have, though, about one kind of foraging.

My concern has to do with the adverse impacts of digging up ramps from the wild, fueled in large part by their increasing popularity with high-profile chefs. As you (may) know, ramps (a.k.a., wild leeks, Allium tricoccum) is a wild plant species native to the eastern U.S. and southern Canada. While country people (particularly in the southern Appalachians) have gathered ramps for their own use for many years without depleting the plant populations, the species? burgeoning cachet among chefs and foodies is resulting in commercial over-harvesting (i.e., conversion of the plants to cash) and the depletion of and damage to ramp patches and the wild habitat they are collected from (see, e.g., http://www.forestrycenter.org/headlines.cfm?refid=98076). Due to commercial over-harvesting, ramps are now an endangered species in Quebec and Ontario and it is now illegal to harvest them for commercial purposes in those provinces (see http://biology.mcgill.ca/undergra/c465a/biodiver/2001/wild-garlic/wild-garlic.htm ).

I myself have noticed in the Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts in recent years a disturbing trend of depleted patches of ramp plants, and associated aesthetic and ecological damage. I have seen places where ramp diggers have uprooted entire patches of plants, leaving only bare soil in their wake. Not only are these dug-up areas an eyesore for spring woodland wildflower enthusiasts and other lovers of the forest to come across, the bare soil created by the ramp digging creates an ideal opportunity for invasive species to gain a toe-hold in the forest, proliferate and eventually crowd out all the native forest floor species (including the wild leeks). One of these invasive species, Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata), not only usurps habitat from native plant species from the forest floor, its roots release anti-fungal chemicals that inhibit the growth of fungi (like morels and oyster mushrooms) and the trees they have a beneficial mycorhyzzal relationship with (like Sugar maples). I have unfortunately seen evidence of this first-hand on a once-pristine wooded hillside in Lenox, where, several years ago while looking for (and finding some) morels, I ran into an employee of a specialty produce store digging up ramps and leaving patches of bare ground. I visited that same spot again this spring, and Garlic Mustard is now growing throughout that forested hillside, and the number of morels I spotted there has declined more than 75% from previous years.

I would like to offer a potential solution to this problem that would enable ramps to be sustainably harvested in the wild without adverse impacts to the forest beauty or ecology. Ramps are commonly gathered from the wild in the spring by the harvesters digging up the entire plant (and others in the patch), thereby terminating the continued existence of those plants in the forest. This unsustainable harvesting method depletes ramp populations and causes aesthetic and ecological damage to the forest. Here?s my suggested alternative: encourage ramp harvesters, and the chefs and other people who buy from them, to confine their ramp harvesting and usage primarily (if not exclusively) to the plants? leaves, and leave most (if not all) of the bulbs in the ground (with at least one leaf attached) so the plants can continue to thrive in the wild. As you (may) know, each ramp/wild leek plant in the spring (when most harvesting occurs) consists of two or three large leaves, attached to a small bulb. Also, as you know, the leaves are delicious on their own, with a marvelous flavor and texture. Ramp leaves alone can be used fresh or cooked in a wide variety of recipes, and (I hope you agree) would be worth using and eating even if the bulb were not attached to them. It is not necessary to dig up a ramp plant to harvest and eat it. If everyone gathering ramps would confine their harvesting to mostly (if not entirely) just the leaves, leaving most (if not all) ramp bulbs in the ground with at least one leaf attached, this more sustainable harvesting method will help ensure that ramp patches won?t be depleted and the forest floor won?t be unnecessarily disturbed.


If you agree (and I hope you do) that foragers + restaurants could successfully cope with just using ramp leaves and not the bulbs, then I would like to encourage you to consider insisting upon this more sustainable harvesting method for any ramps gather on your own or obtain from others.

Thanks for considering this suggestion.

—Russ Cohen http://users.rcn.com/eatwild/bio.htm

From Scott Newby on Sat, April 17, 2010

Can someone tell me if ramps are found in Okla.?



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